Self-drive + local trains + one bullet-train ride
Japan with three kids, off the crowded path
The trip in four zones
We bucketed the trip into four zones, each good for something different. Kanazawa wasn't on this route; Shirakawa-go is about an hour away, so it is an easy add-on next time.
| Zone | Dates | Highlights | Good for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fuji Coast Hakone, Kannami, Odawara, Atami | 11 to 12 Oct | Lake Ashi, Fuji Safari Park drive-through, Odawara Castle, Atami waterfront at dusk | A gentle start after the flight: nature, animals and sea views with little walking. The easiest zone for the 3-year-old. |
| Kansai Classics Kyoto, Osaka, Nara from a Lake Biwa base | 13 to 15 Oct | Fushimi Inari, Nara deer and Todai-ji, Kinkaku-ji, Arashiyama, Katsuo-ji Daruma, Shinsekai, Dotonbori | Temples, food and neon in one zone. A quiet lakeside base and driving in avoided city hotel crowds. |
| Alps & Old Japan Gujo Hachiman, Takayama, Furukawa, Shirakawa-go | 16 to 17 Oct | Gujo canals, Sanmachi Suji, Furukawa old town, thatched farmhouses of Shirakawa-go | Old-world villages, slow walking and scenic drives. Few crowds after 15:30. |
| Tokyo Rail Days | 17 to 21 Oct | Asakusa, Ueno, Shinkansen ride to Atami and back, Meiji Jingu, Ginza, Shibuya, teamLab Planets, Shibuya Sky, Akihabara | Trains and timed-entry highlights. Big experiences, shopping and the bullet-train ride. |
Together: a nature start, then culture, then villages, then a city finish. Around 1,600 km driven, then car-free Tokyo.
Must-visit highlights
The stops that earned their place, including the towns we only passed through while driving. Times are what we actually spent, from the timeline.
Must stay · Kansai Classics · 13 to 15 Oct, 3 nights
Wataka Ogoto Onsen, Otsu (Lake Biwa)
Our base for Kyoto, Osaka and Nara. It is an onsen ryokan on the shore of Lake Biwa in Otsu, in Shiga, just over the hills from Kyoto: about 23 km, or roughly a 35-minute drive, to the centre of Kyoto.
Staying outside Kyoto kept the nights quiet and the car easy to park, and it let us reach Fushimi Inari, Nara, Kinkaku-ji and Arashiyama without moving bags between hotels.
Why it works Three nights in one place, a soak in the onsen after long driving days, and no city-centre crowds in the evening.
Alps & Old Japan · Day 7 · about 2 h
Takayama
Sanmachi Suji is the old merchant quarter: dark wooden townhouses, sake breweries and small craft shops, all walkable on flat streets.
Tip Go after 15:30 when tour groups leave. Morning markets near the river are an option if you stay overnight.
Alps & Old Japan · Day 8 · about 1 h 40
Shirakawa-go
The UNESCO-listed village of steep thatched gassho-zukuri farmhouses. It looks different from everywhere else on the trip.
Tip Arrive before 10:00 or after 15:00. Walk the edge paths and the viewpoint instead of the main lane. Enkō-ji temple is a quiet stop nearby.
Alps & Old Japan · Day 7 · about 2 h
Gujo Hachiman
A small castle town built around clear canals and a river, with carp in the water and narrow lanes to wander.
Tip Good lunch stop on the way north. Keep little ones away from the water's edge.
Alps & Old Japan · Day 7 · overnight
Furukawa (Hida-Furukawa)
A calm old town with white-walled storehouses along a canal. Quieter and cheaper than staying in central Takayama.
Tip Stroll the canal after dinner. Check restaurant hours first, as many close early.
Kansai Classics · Day 6 · about 3 h
Nara
Todai-ji's Great Buddha and the deer in Nara Park, plus the old Naramachi streets for lunch.
Tip Buy deer crackers from official sellers, and hold them firmly.
Kansai Classics · Day 5 · coffee stop + about 2 h
Minoh and Katsuo-ji
A coffee stop in Minoh, then the hillside temple of Katsuo-ji, known for thousands of small red Daruma dolls.
Tip A weekday morning keeps it calm. The stairs suit older kids; carry the 3-year-old.
Fuji Coast · Day 3 · quick stops
Odawara and Gotemba
Odawara Castle's grounds are free to walk and open, an easy stop after Fuji Safari Park. Gotemba is a quick road stop with Fuji views on clear days.
Tip A good holiday-Monday pair: space for children to run.
Fuji Coast · Day 3 · about 2 h 40 + 50 min
Atami and Cape Manazuru
Cape Manazuru is a scenic point on the coast, and Atami is a resort town with a waterfront promenade. Atami is also the turnaround for the bullet-train ride on Day 9.
Tip Atami is flat with benches, so it is easy at the end of a day.
On the road · Days 4 and 8 · rest stops
Lake Suwa and the service areas
Tsuchiyama and Suwako service areas are proper break stops with toilets, food and views, so treat them as planned breaks.
Tip Break every 90 minutes. The Suwako stop is by Lake Suwa, a good place to let the kids stretch.
The days
01. Singapore to Haneda
02. Haneda to Lake Ashi
03. Fuji Safari Park & Odawara
04. Kannami to Otsu
05. Katsuo-ji & Osaka
06. Fushimi Inari, Nara & Arashiyama
07. Otsu to Takayama
08. Shirakawa-go to Tokyo
09. Asakusa, Ueno & the bullet train
10. Meiji Jingu to Shibuya
11. teamLab & Shibuya Sky
12. Akihabara & flight home
The route
Five rules that kept it calm
Drive the long gaps
Hakone to Kansai to the Alps is easiest with a car and a seat for everyone. Plan a break about every 90 minutes at a service area.
Train the big cities
Return the car before Tokyo. Parking is costly and the rail network is faster for short hops.
Go early or late
Be first at shrines and temples, and visit lantern streets after dinner. Midday belongs to the tour buses.
Book timed entries
teamLab Planets, Shibuya Sky and restaurants were booked in advance. Tickets are the cheapest crowd control.
Ride the Shinkansen once
A short round trip from Tokyo to Atami is a bullet-train memory without a whole day of transit.
01
Sat 10 Oct · Flight · Arrival
Singapore to Haneda, a soft landing
Night in Ota ward, Tokyo (near Haneda)
We kept arrival day small on purpose: a late-morning flight, a 9 km ride from the airport and an early night close to Haneda instead of a hotel in the middle of Tokyo.
Flight ≈ 5,300 km | Airport to stay 9 km, 23 min
Haneda sits closer to the city than Narita and keeps the first night easy. Our stay in Tamagawa was a short ride from the terminal, in a residential part of Ota ward where the streets are quiet after dark. For a group with a 3-year-old, getting horizontal by 21:00 matters more than a view.
Flying out on a Saturday morning meant we landed in the evening, after the airport rush and before the city's late crowds.
The day on the clock
| 08:30 SGT | Check-in at Changi with the kids. |
| 10:22 SGT | Wheels up. |
| ~19:00 | Wheels down at Haneda. |
| 19:50 | Out of the terminal after immigration and bags. |
| 20:13 | At the stay in Tamagawa, 9 km south-west of the airport. |
Crowd-free move
Late evening arrival at Haneda is calm. The stay was in a residential street, away from the tourist grid.
With kids (12, 7, 3)
Keep the first night to one task: get everyone to bed. A short ride beats a long train with luggage and a tired toddler.
Pack a change of clothes for each child in the carry-on. Bags can take a while on arrival.
Vegetarian notes
Convenience-store onigiri (pickled plum, kelp) and fruit cups work as a first dinner. Check the label for tuna and mayo fillings.
Where we ate
Evening near Haneda: first dinner (arrived at the stay about 20:13)
Other places on our Maps list
Haneda Airport Terminal 3 Station Train station
Veg-friendly options researched for this area (suggestions to check, not a record of where we went): Convenience-store onigiri (pickled plum, kelp) and fruit cups work as a first dinner. Check the label for tuna and mayo fillings.
02
Sun 11 Oct · Drive + train · Fuji Coast
Rental car at Haneda, then the Hakone lakeside
Night in Kannami, Shizuoka
A short train hop to pick up the Alphard, a slow crawl out of Tokyo, and a long afternoon at Lake Ashi when the day-trip crowds were thinning.
Drive 130 km | Walk 4.9 km | Local train 5.8 km
We left the hotel on foot and by train rather than driving from the airport on day one. That meant picking up the car on a Sunday morning with no jet-lag driving through central Tokyo.
The drive to Hakone is the first lesson of the trip: roads out of Tokyo on a Sunday late morning move slowly, so the 99 km took two and a half hours. Lake Ashi in the afternoon was calmer than midday, with tour groups tending to leave before 17:00. We used the golden hour for a long lakeside walk and drove to Kannami for the night.
The day on the clock
| 09:18 | Walk and a 5-minute train, then a 22-minute walk to Kamata. |
| 10:05 | Train to Haneda to collect the rental car. |
| 11:12 | Back at the stay to load the bags. |
| 11:33 | Drive west, 99 km to Lake Ashi (about 2 h 30 with traffic). |
| 14:01 | Lake Ashi, about 3 hours. |
| 17:09 | Lakeside walk of about 3 km. |
| 18:39 | Dinner stop in Kannami. |
| 19:10 | Check-in in Kannami. |
Crowd-free move
Reach Lake Ashi after 14:00. The pirate-ship queues are shorter and the light is better for photos.
With kids (12, 7, 3)
Plan the car pickup early. Child seats are best confirmed with the rental company in advance.
A 3-hour lake stop with a snack and playground breaks worked better than a packed schedule.
Vegetarian notes
Kannami is a small town. We booked a guesthouse with a cafe and picked up dinner nearby. Check hours before arriving, as many places close by 20:00.
Where we ate
Lake Ashi stop, about 13:00 to 16:00
Dinner stop near Kannami, about 17:40
Ashinoko Terrace | Italian, Lake Ashi | Veg options
Pizza margherita, pasta and salads are the usual veg picks. Confirm no meat stock in the sauces.
Other places on our Maps list
Haneda Airport Terminal 3 Station Train station
Veg-friendly options researched for this area (suggestions to check, not a record of where we went): Kannami is a small town. We booked a guesthouse with a cafe and picked up dinner nearby. Check hours before arriving, as many places close by 20:00.
03
Mon 12 Oct · Self-drive · Fuji Coast
Fuji Safari Park, Gotemba and Odawara Castle
Night in Kannami, Shizuoka (second night)
Monday 12 October was Sports Day, a national holiday, so we planned an easy loop where much of the day happens inside the car: a drive-through safari, a quick Fuji from the grassland and a castle park.
Drive 131 km | Walk 1.3 km
A holiday Monday is when Japanese families head to the same attractions as you, so we chose places where the crowd matters less: a safari park you can mostly do from the car, an open castle park and a seaside town in the evening.
Fuji Safari Park took most of the late morning. After a quick stop in Gotemba we drove east to Odawara Castle, where the grounds are free to walk and easy with children. We finished on the coast, first at a roadside station near Manazuru and then in Atami for dinner and a walk by the water.
The day on the clock
| 08:56 | Leave Kannami. |
| 09:25 | Short stop on the way (20 min). |
| 09:45 | Fuji Safari Park, about 2 hours 40. |
| 12:23 | Quick stop in Gotemba. |
| 13:39 | Odawara Castle and park, about 1 hour 30. |
| 16:23 | Coastal stop on the Manazuru side (about 50 min). |
| 18:08 | Atami waterfront, about 2 hours 40, dinner and a stroll. |
| 21:25 | Back in Kannami. |
Crowd-free move
On a public holiday, go to the animal park at opening and leave by midday. Odawara Castle is wide open by mid-afternoon.
With kids (12, 7, 3)
The safari is the day's kid highlight: animals from the car window, no queues for the little one.
Atami's waterfront is flat and has plenty of benches, a good place to wind the day down.
Vegetarian notes
Atami and Odawara have a few vegetarian-friendly cafes. Search ahead and arrive before 20:00.
Where we ate
Lunch around Odawara Castle, about 12:40 to 14:10
Dinner in Atami, about 17:10 to 19:45
Other places on our Maps list
Cape Manazuru Scenic point | Atami Waterfront town
Veg-friendly options researched for this area (suggestions to check, not a record of where we went): Atami and Odawara have a few vegetarian-friendly cafes. Search ahead and arrive before 20:00.
04
Tue 13 Oct · Self-drive · Kansai Classics
Across Honshu to Lake Biwa
Night in Otsu, Shiga (Lake Biwa)
Our longest driving day: about 400 km from Shizuoka to Shiga with three planned breaks, then a Kyoto night walk after check-in.
Drive 405 km | Walk 3.2 km
Distance days work when you treat the highway like a trail and plan the stops. We broke the drive at Mishima, Hamamatsu and Tsuchiyama service area, which has proper facilities for kids. By 17:43 we were checked in at the onsen ryokan on Lake Biwa.
Kyoto at night is the cure for driving fatigue. We parked, walked Gion and Pontocho after dark when the day-trippers have gone and the lantern-lit lanes are quiet, then drove back the 35 km.
The day on the clock
| 10:18 | Leave Kannami. |
| 10:42 | Morning stop in the Mishima hills (1 hour). |
| 11:48 | Drive 123 km west. |
| 13:12 | Lunch break near Hamamatsu (30 min). |
| 13:41 | Drive 134 km to the Shin-Meishin. |
| 15:13 | Tsuchiyama service area, about 1 hour. |
| 17:43 | Check in at the onsen ryokan in Otsu. |
| 19:26 | Drive 23 km to central Kyoto. |
| 19:26 | Walk about 3 km through Gion, Pontocho and Kawaramachi, 2 h 45. |
| 22:45 | Drive back to Otsu. |
Crowd-free move
Kyoto's Gion lanes are busiest at dusk. Walk them after 20:00 and stay on Pontocho and the Kamo River bank.
With kids (12, 7, 3)
Service areas on the Shin-Tomei and Shin-Meishin have clean toilets, snacks and playgrounds. Treat each as a planned break.
Let the 3-year-old sleep in the car in the afternoon so the evening walk still works.
Vegetarian notes
Researched Kyoto picks near Kawaramachi: MOON and BACK Ramen Bar (vegan ramen, open daily) and AIN SOPH. Journey (vegan, reserve).
Where we ate
Lunch break near Hamamatsu, about 12:10 to 12:40
McDonald's, Nagaizumi | Fast food, Fuji side (morning stop, day to confirm) | Ask first
Fries, shakes and sides. Burgers are not veg.
Veg-friendly options researched for this area (suggestions to check, not a record of where we went): Researched Kyoto picks near Kawaramachi: MOON and BACK Ramen Bar (vegan ramen, open daily) and AIN SOPH. Journey (vegan, reserve).
05
Wed 14 Oct · Self-drive · Kansai Classics
Katsuo-ji, Shinsekai and Dotonbori by car
Night in Otsu, Shiga
A weekday in Osaka without a single subway ride: a coffee stop in Minoh, the red-Daruma temple of Katsuo-ji, Shinsekai's retro towers and Dotonbori for a 6 pm dinner.
Drive 164 km | Walk 1.3 km
Katsuo-ji is the day's quiet star: a hillside temple north of Osaka dotted with thousands of small red Daruma dolls, most of them left by visitors hoping for a win. On a Wednesday morning it feels like a temple rather than an attraction.
From there we drove straight to Shinsekai, where the Tsutenkaku Tower and neon lanes give kids plenty to look at. Dotonbori came last, for a dinner booked at 18:00 and a slow canal-side walk after the early crowd had gone.
We kept the car with us all day so nobody had to manage subway stairs with a toddler. Parking was the only cost to plan.
The day on the clock
| 10:02 | Leave Otsu. |
| 11:08 | Coffee stop in Minoh (1 hour). |
| 12:26 | Katsuo-ji, about 2 hours. |
| 15:30 | Shinsekai and Tsutenkaku Tower, about 1 h 15. |
| 17:07 | Park in Dotonbori. |
| 18:00 | Dinner (booked). |
| 19:23 | Evening stroll along the canal. |
| 21:19 | Drive back to Otsu, 67 km, arriving 22:26. |
Crowd-free move
Katsuo-ji: go on a weekday morning, open from 8:00. Dotonbori: arrive after 17:00 and eat early.
With kids (12, 7, 3)
Katsuo-ji has stairs and slopes. Carry the 3-year-old and let the older two hunt for the Daruma.
In Tsutenkaku, kids can ride up to the deck and touch the feet of Billiken, Shinsekai's lucky charm.
Vegetarian notes
Researched veg picks in Dotonbori: Gyozaoh! (vegetarian gyoza, from 17:00), Pivot BASE Cafe & Bar and Green Earth. Shinsekai's kushikatsu is mostly meat and seafood in shared oil, so skip it.
Where we ate
Coffee and bakes in Minoh, about 10:10 to 11:10
Dinner in Dotonbori, booked for 18:00
Coffee & Bakes YATT | Cafe and bakery, Minoh | Veg options
Coffee and baked goods. Ask about egg, gelatin and meat fillings.
Gyozaoh! Dotonbori | Gyoza, Dotonbori | Veg options
Has vegetarian gyoza; confirm the broth and dipping sauce.
Veg-friendly options researched for this area (suggestions to check, not a record of where we went): Researched veg picks in Dotonbori: Gyozaoh! (vegetarian gyoza, from 17:00), Pivot BASE Cafe & Bar and Green Earth. Shinsekai's kushikatsu is mostly meat and seafood in shared oil, so skip it.
06
Thu 15 Oct · Self-drive · Kansai Classics
Fushimi Inari, Nara, Kinkaku-ji and Arashiyama
Night in Otsu, Shiga
Four of Kansai's most famous sights in one day, stacked so each one meets the quietest hours: shrine gates first, deer at midday, gold at mid-afternoon and bamboo at sunset.
Drive 135 km | Walk 7.2 km
The order matters. Fushimi Inari opens all night, but the lower gates fill by mid-morning, so we went first and turned around at Yotsutsuji, a viewpoint about an hour round trip rather than the full 2-3 hour summit loop. Nara followed, with Todai-ji's Great Buddha and the deer in the park.
Kinkaku-ji came in the afternoon, then Arashiyama in the late light, when most day-trippers have left the bamboo grove. We ended with an evening walk in central Kyoto before driving home.
The day on the clock
| 08:26 | Leave Otsu. |
| ~08:50 | Fushimi Inari, about 1 hour. |
| 11:15 | Nara: Todai-ji and Nara Park, about 1 h 40. |
| 12:57 | Lunch in Nara, about 1 h 25. |
| 14:23 | Drive 48 km to Kinkaku-ji. |
| 15:42 | Kinkaku-ji. |
| 16:43 | Arashiyama on foot, about 1 hour. |
| 17:44 | Bamboo grove area, about 30 min. |
| 19:43 | Kyoto after dark, about 1 h 40 on foot. |
| 22:04 | Back at Otsu. |
Crowd-free move
Arrive at Fushimi Inari before 9:00. Take Kinkaku-ji late; it closes at 17:00. Visit the Arashiyama bamboo after 16:30.
With kids (12, 7, 3)
Fushimi Inari has many steps. Stop at Okusha Hohaiden if the younger ones are tired.
Nara's deer crackers (about ¥200) are a hit with younger kids; hold them tightly.
Vegetarian notes
Researched Nara picks: Kinatei (vegetarian set lunch, from 11:30), onwa (vegan, small) and Wakakusa Curry Hompo (vegetarian curry). In Kyoto, UZU (vegan ramen with sushi starter) needs advance booking.
Where we ate
Lunch in Nara, about 12:00 to 13:20
Evening meal in Kyoto, about 17:30 to 18:20
One's Heart Cafe | Cafe, Naramachi, Nara | Veg options
A cafe stop in old Nara. Ask for vegetable-only dishes.
Veg-friendly options researched for this area (suggestions to check, not a record of where we went): Researched Nara picks: Kinatei (vegetarian set lunch, from 11:30), onwa (vegan, small) and Wakakusa Curry Hompo (vegetarian curry). In Kyoto, UZU (vegan ramen with sushi starter) needs advance booking.
07
Fri 16 Oct · Self-drive · Alps & Old Japan
Gujo Hachiman, Takayama old town and a night in Furukawa
Night in Hida-Furukawa, Gifu
Leaving Lake Biwa for the Japan Alps: a canal town at lunch, Takayama's old merchant street in the afternoon, and a quieter old town for the night.
Drive 276 km | Walk 2.5 km
Gujo Hachiman is a small castle town with clear canals and a sample-food craft district. We gave it two hours, enough for the castle approach, a canal walk and lunch.
In Takayama we reached the old town at 16:00 and walked about 2.5 km through Sanmachi Suji while the day trippers were leaving. Furukawa, a short drive away, is the quieter option for the night.
The day on the clock
| 09:22 | Leave Otsu. |
| 12:27 | Gujo Hachiman, about 2 h 10. |
| 14:43 | Drive 75 km on to Takayama. |
| 15:58 | Takayama old town on foot, about 1 h 55. |
| 18:25 | Check in at the stay in Hida-Furukawa. |
| 20:59 | Dinner in Furukawa. |
Crowd-free move
Reach Sanmachi Suji after 15:30, when tours leave. Stay in Furukawa instead of central Takayama to avoid evening crowds.
With kids (12, 7, 3)
Gujo's canals are shallow and kids can watch carp. Keep the 3-year-old close to the water's edge.
Takayama's streets are flat and stroller-friendly in daytime.
Vegetarian notes
Researched picks: Kakusho (Takayama shojin ryori, reserve ahead), Heianraku (home-style Chinese/Japanese) and Wa Cafe Hanafuka. Many Hida menus are beef-heavy, so ask in advance for vegetable-only dishes.
Where we ate
Lunch in Gujo Hachiman, about 12:30 to 13:40
Dinner in Furukawa, about 18:10 to 20:00
Veg-friendly options researched for this area (suggestions to check, not a record of where we went): Researched picks: Kakusho (Takayama shojin ryori, reserve ahead), Heianraku (home-style Chinese/Japanese) and Wa Cafe Hanafuka. Many Hida menus are beef-heavy, so ask in advance for vegetable-only dishes.
08
Sat 17 Oct · Self-drive · Alps & Old Japan
Shirakawa-go, a lake rest stop and the road to Tokyo
Night in Ryogoku, Sumida, Tokyo
A long drive day with one headline stop: the thatched farmhouses of Shirakawa-go, then a 340 km run through Nagano and Yamanashi back to Tokyo, ending with the rental car returned and the train home.
Drive 354 km | Walk 6.6 km
Shirakawa-go is on every itinerary, and coaches arrive from mid-morning. We reached it at 11:20 and stayed until about 13:00, walking the outer lanes and viewpoint paths where the crowds thin out.
The drive east passes Lake Suwa. We used the service area as a lakeside break, then pushed on through the Chuo Expressway at dusk and into Tokyo for the car return.
The day on the clock
| 09:38 | Leave Furukawa. |
| 11:20 | Arrive Shirakawa-go. |
| 11:20 | Walk about 6 km around the village, 1 h 40. |
| 13:10 | Leave for Tokyo. |
| 16:22 | Suwako service area, about 1 hour. |
| 17:20 | Drive 184 km to Tokyo. |
| 20:27 | Arrive at Ryogoku. |
| 21:09 | Return the rental car. |
| 22:04 | Train back to the hotel. |
Crowd-free move
If you can, arrive at Shirakawa-go before 10:00 or after 15:00. Walk the village edge paths rather than the main lane.
With kids (12, 7, 3)
The village is flat but busy at midday. Hold hands in the main lane.
A 1-hour lake break in the middle of the drive reset everyone.
Vegetarian notes
Shirakawa-go cafes serve limited vegetarian options. Pack snacks, and eat at Suwako service area or in Tokyo.
Where we ate
Break at Suwako service area, about 15:20 to 16:20
Dinner in Tokyo, about 19:30
Starbucks, Suwako Service Area | Coffee, inbound side | Drinks
Drinks and pastries on the expressway break.
Toriya Ebisu Ryogoku | Chicken restaurant, Ryogoku (night to confirm) | Not veg-focused
Chicken-focused. Only sides or rice dishes are possible for vegetarians; ask before ordering.
CHILL OUT Coffee &...Records | Coffee and records, Ryogoku (day to confirm) | Drinks
Specialty coffee near the hotel.
Other places on our Maps list
Shirakawa-go Heritage village | Shirakawagō Seseragi Park Parking Lot Car park | Enkō-ji (Temple of Perfect Light) Buddhist temple | Ryogoku View Hotel Hotel, nights 17 to 20 Oct | Ryogoku Neighbourhood
Veg-friendly options researched for this area (suggestions to check, not a record of where we went): Shirakawa-go cafes serve limited vegetarian options. Pack snacks, and eat at Suwako service area or in Tokyo.
09
Sun 18 Oct · Bullet train · Tokyo Rail Days
Asakusa, Ueno and the bullet-train joy ride
Night in Ryogoku, Sumida, Tokyo
Our first car-free day. Morning in Asakusa, an afternoon in Ueno, then a Shinkansen to Atami and straight back, a 90-minute ride just for the experience, with the platform pause and the view.
Bullet train 186 km | Metro and train 12 km | Walk 7.2 km
The bullet train is the kid highlight of any trip, and Atami is the smart destination for a short ride: 48 minutes from Tokyo, a resort town on the coast and an easy 15 minutes on the platform before turning back. Total train time was about 1 h 33,.
We started at Asakusa, which is busiest from late morning, then took the quieter Ueno side after lunch. The late-afternoon departure kept us out of the commuter peaks.
The day on the clock
| 10:45 | Metro to Asakusa. |
| 10:49 | Asakusa, about 3 hours on foot. |
| 13:41 | Metro to Ueno. |
| 13:50 | Ueno and Ameyoko, about 1 h 40. |
| 15:30 | Train to Tokyo Station. |
| 16:00 | Shinkansen Tokyo to Atami, 48 min. |
| 16:48 | Platform stop at Atami, 15 min. |
| 17:03 | Shinkansen back to Tokyo, 45 min. |
| 17:48 | Evening walk around Marunouchi and Ginza, about 1 h 30. |
| 19:20 | Dinner at Tokyo Station. |
| 20:43 | Train to the hotel. |
Crowd-free move
Asakusa: be at Sensoji before 9:00 if possible. Tokyo Station dinner: eat by 18:00 or after 20:00.
With kids (12, 7, 3)
Buy seats together in advance for a family of seven. Ask for window seats for the kids.
Bring something for the platform: Shinkansen spotting is its own attraction.
Vegetarian notes
T's TanTan at Ecute Ueno (vegan ramen) is a reliable family lunch. Queues build at peak meal times.
Where we ate
Lunch around Ueno, about 12:50 to 14:30
Dinner at Tokyo Station, about 18:20 to 19:45
T's TanTan, Ecute Ueno | Vegan ramen, Ueno Station | Vegan
Fully vegan ramen, a safe family lunch.
Starbucks, Wadakura Fountain Park | Coffee, Marunouchi | Drinks
Coffee break on the Marunouchi evening walk.
Other places on our Maps list
Sensō-ji Buddhist temple | Ueno Park Park | Tokyo Station Rail hub and Shinkansen | Atami Shinkansen turnaround
Veg-friendly options researched for this area (suggestions to check, not a record of where we went): T's TanTan at Ecute Ueno (vegan ramen) is a reliable family lunch. Queues build at peak meal times.
10
Mon 19 Oct · Local trains · Tokyo Rail Days
Meiji Jingu, Harajuku, Ginza and Shibuya
Night in Ryogoku, Sumida, Tokyo
A big city day on trains and feet: the forest approach to Meiji Jingu in the morning, Harajuku's side streets, Ginza at lunch and the Shibuya crossing at dusk.
Walk 10.1 km | Train and Metro 47 km
Entering Meiji Jingu from the Yoyogi side meant a quiet forest path rather than the Harajuku gate rush. Takeshita Street can be a crush, so we crossed it before noon and avoided its busiest stretch.
Ginza on a Monday afternoon is calm. We ended at Shibuya, where the scramble crossing is more fun at dusk than midday.
The day on the clock
| 09:21 | JR to Yoyogi. |
| 09:43 | Walk through Meiji Jingu to Harajuku, about 1 h 50, 4 km. |
| 11:32 | Metro across town. |
| 13:04 | Ginza, about 1 h 50. |
| 14:57 | Metro to Omotesando. |
| 15:39 | Omotesando and Harajuku. |
| 16:19 | Shibuya, about 2 h 40. |
| 19:01 | Train home. |
Crowd-free move
Takeshita Street: visit before 11:00. Shibuya crossing: stand on the upper level of a cafe or station walkway for the view.
With kids (12, 7, 3)
Plan a seat break every 90 minutes. Ten kilometres of walking is a lot for a 3-year-old.
Give the 12-year-old a navigation role with the map.
Vegetarian notes
Harajuku and Shibuya have many vegan and vegetarian cafes. Search near your route and book dinner by 18:00.
Where we ate
Lunch in Ginza area
Dinner around Shibuya, about 16:00 to 18:00
Shibuya meals this evening: see the Shibuya list on Day 11 (exact day to confirm).
Other places on our Maps list
Meiji Jingu Shinto shrine | Meiji Jingu Gyoen Garden | Ginza Shopping district | Onitsuka Tiger Omotesando Store Shoe shop | Onitsuka Tiger Omotesando Yellow Concept Shoe shop | Hachiko Statue Sculpture, Shibuya | Miyashita Park Shopping centre, Shibuya | UNIQLO Shibuya Dōgenzaka Clothing shop
Veg-friendly options researched for this area (suggestions to check, not a record of where we went): Harajuku and Shibuya have many vegan and vegetarian cafes. Search near your route and book dinner by 18:00.
11
Tue 20 Oct · Local trains · Tokyo Rail Days
teamLab Planets and Shibuya Sky
Night in Ryogoku, Sumida, Tokyo
Two timed-entry highlights booked in advance, which is the most reliable crowd-free move in Tokyo: teamLab Planets at 11:30 and Shibuya Sky at 15:00.
Train and Metro 41 km | Walk 1.5 km
teamLab Planets requires bare feet and rolled-up trousers, so dress accordingly. The immersive rooms are best with kids who can wade and walk, and a timed 11:30 slot keeps the entrance queues short.
We crossed the bay by the Yurikamome line, then took a direct train to Shibuya for the 15:00 sky deck slot. The late-afternoon booking means you see both daylight and the first city lights.
The day on the clock
| 10:08 | Metro to Toyosu. |
| 10:26 | teamLab Planets, 11:30 slot, about 3 hours including lunch. |
| 13:44 | Yurikamome and Rinkai line to Shibuya. |
| 14:29 | Shibuya Sky, 15:00 slot. |
| 18:49 | Dinner in Shibuya. |
| 20:25 | Shinjuku evening, about 1 h 35. |
| 22:26 | Train home. |
Crowd-free move
Book both tickets weeks ahead. Shibuya Sky is busiest at sunset, so a 15:00 slot is calmer.
With kids (12, 7, 3)
Check teamLab's height rules for the 3-year-old and plan a lap-carry through the water rooms.
Bring a small towel and a change of clothes for the youngest.
Vegetarian notes
Toyosu and Shibuya both have vegetarian options. Book a restaurant for 18:30 to avoid a long wait.
Where we ate
Lunch at Toyosu after teamLab
Dinner in Shibuya, about 17:50 to 19:00
Late snack in Shinjuku, about 19:30 to 21:00
Masaka (Vegan Izakaya) | Vegan izakaya, Tokyo (Shibuya days, 19 or 20 Oct) | Vegan
Entirely vegan, the best dinner pick for the group. Book ahead.
Moheji, Shibuya Scramble Square | Monjayaki | Ask first
Ask for vegetable-only monjayaki without seafood or dashi.
Matsue, Shibuya Scramble Square | Sushi | Ask first
Veg options are limited: cucumber, tamago, inari. Ask about dashi in the rice.
Afuri, Shibuya Dogenzaka | Ramen | Ask first
Some Afuri outlets offer vegan ramen; confirm at this branch.
Hokkaido Sapporo Ramen | Ramen | Ask first
Miso and shoyu broths are usually pork or fish based. Ask first.
Gyumon Halal Wagyu Ramen, Shibuya | Halal wagyu ramen | Not veg-focused
Meat-focused. Only worth it if there was a non-veg diner or a veg side.
Other places on our Maps list
teamLab Planets TOKYO DMM Digital art museum | Shibuya Sky Observation deck | Shinjuku Station Train station | UNIQLO Shinjuku Honten (Flagship Store) Clothing shop
Veg-friendly options researched for this area (suggestions to check, not a record of where we went): Toyosu and Shibuya both have vegetarian options. Book a restaurant for 18:30 to avoid a long wait.
12
Wed 21 Oct · Local trains · Tokyo Rail Days
Akihabara, checkout and the flight home
Night in Departure day
A relaxed last morning: souvenirs in Akihabara, bags from the hotel and a 70-minute train to Narita for the evening flight to Singapore.
Train 91 km | Walk 0.5 km
Leave a full 3.5 hours at Narita for check-in, the family security queue and a meal. Akihabara in the morning is quiet before the shops fully open.
The day on the clock
| 10:16 | Train to Shibuya for last souvenirs. |
| 11:22 | Akihabara, about 1 hour. |
| 12:34 | Back at Ryogoku to collect the bags. |
| 13:12 | Train to Narita, about 1 h 15. |
| 14:25 | Narita Airport. |
| ~17:00 | Departure for Singapore. |
Crowd-free move
Leave the hotel by 13:00 so you reach Narita around 14:30.
With kids (12, 7, 3)
Pack a last-day snack and a pyjama change in the carry-on.
Have each child pick one souvenir budget item.
Vegetarian notes
Narita has a few vegetarian-friendly options airside. Eat before security if you want choice.
Where we ate
Akihabara morning, about 10:20 to 11:30
Airport meal at Narita
Other places on our Maps list
Akihabara Station Train station
Veg-friendly options researched for this area (suggestions to check, not a record of where we went): Narita has a few vegetarian-friendly options airside. Eat before security if you want choice.
Vegetarian scorecard
Every restaurant and cafe from our Maps list, rated for a vegetarian family. "Vegan" means the whole menu is plant-based. "Ask first" means there is usually something, but check stock and dashi. Veg notes are general guidance, not a record of what we ordered.
| Day | Place | Veg rating | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Day 2 | Ashinoko Terrace | Veg options | Pizza margherita, pasta and salads are the usual veg picks. Confirm no meat stock in the sauces. |
| Day 4 | McDonald's, Nagaizumi | Ask first | Fries, shakes and sides. Burgers are not veg. |
| Day 5 | Coffee & Bakes YATT | Veg options | Coffee and baked goods. Ask about egg, gelatin and meat fillings. |
| Day 5 | Gyozaoh! Dotonbori | Veg options | Has vegetarian gyoza; confirm the broth and dipping sauce. |
| Day 6 | One's Heart Cafe | Veg options | A cafe stop in old Nara. Ask for vegetable-only dishes. |
| Day 8 | Starbucks, Suwako Service Area | Drinks | Drinks and pastries on the expressway break. |
| Day 8 | Toriya Ebisu Ryogoku | Not veg-focused | Chicken-focused. Only sides or rice dishes are possible for vegetarians; ask before ordering. |
| Day 8 | CHILL OUT Coffee &...Records | Drinks | Specialty coffee near the hotel. |
| Day 9 | T's TanTan, Ecute Ueno | Vegan | Fully vegan ramen, a safe family lunch. |
| Day 9 | Starbucks, Wadakura Fountain Park | Drinks | Coffee break on the Marunouchi evening walk. |
| Day 11 | Masaka (Vegan Izakaya) | Vegan | Entirely vegan, the best dinner pick for the group. Book ahead. |
| Day 11 | Moheji, Shibuya Scramble Square | Ask first | Ask for vegetable-only monjayaki without seafood or dashi. |
| Day 11 | Matsue, Shibuya Scramble Square | Ask first | Veg options are limited: cucumber, tamago, inari. Ask about dashi in the rice. |
| Day 11 | Afuri, Shibuya Dogenzaka | Ask first | Some Afuri outlets offer vegan ramen; confirm at this branch. |
| Day 11 | Hokkaido Sapporo Ramen | Ask first | Miso and shoyu broths are usually pork or fish based. Ask first. |
| Day 11 | Gyumon Halal Wagyu Ramen, Shibuya | Not veg-focused | Meat-focused. Only worth it if there was a non-veg diner or a veg side. |